7.30.2015

Framed Bathroom Mirror - with molding trim


This is one of those posts I've had in my file forever but it just seemed like too big of a job to post it the way I wanted to (with a lot of explanation and links and such) but in the end, life gets in the way and it just sits there, helping no one, so today I decided it was time for these photos to come out of my files and into my website.

This was a much larger project that I'm going to post about today.  In order to make this post shorter in length, I'm only featuring one small mirror today - the mirror on my husbands side of the master bath.  I will post the photos from the other side in another post as those 2 mirrors were 7 1/2 feet and 5 feet long respectively.  It was a huge job!

First, we have the typical mirror you find in many bathrooms. 
A construction grade mirror with no personality, hung with brackets and after time, usually is water damaged around the edges from steam from the bathroom or cleaning products from years of cleaning.




The first thing you need is a miter box.  I bought this simple one at Lowes (here) just $9.98 for the box with the saw, and if you already have a hand saw, the box alone is only $4.98.


Measure the height and width of your mirror to determine how much trim or molding you need to purchase.  Allow a little extra for mistakes in measuring, splits when sawing, messing up the paint, the glue... any number of things.  I actually bought a 'bundle' of construction grade, white molding from Lowes as I had 3 mirrors to do.  There are many, many styles, cuts and designs to choose from.  I went with a piece of trim that had a couple scallop cuts in it but wasn't 'too' busy or intricate.

Lay out your boards and measure the pieces you need.
Twice.
And then once more just in case.
You need to use the miter box to cut the pieces so the angled ends lock together at the corners.
To help visualize what you are doing, look at a picture frame or art hanging on your wall.
You are 'framing' the mirror instead of a picture and your corners need to fit together like a picture frame.
It would be much easier to cut if I could nail or screw the miter box into a bench, but we don't have a place for that so I knelt on the garage floor and put my knee on the trim as I cut.
To get the angles correct, some boards were cut right side down as it was easier for me to saw right handed.

Lay out your boards on the ground as if you were framing the mirror.
Make sure you cut correctly and the corner angles match up.  Don't worry if they are not 'tight' into each other.  You just need to make sure the angles match and the boards are cut correctly.
I marked the back of each board to tell me not only the measurement length (example:  44 1/2 inches) but also "top" "right" "bottom" and "left"  as well as which mirror it was for (because I was doing 3 mirrors at once even though I'm only featuring the one in this post).
Re-measure.  Again. Make sure they are correct, measure from the long point of the angle - and that you didn't cut them wrong.
Now paint them whatever color you wish, with the paint of your choice, and let dry completely. 
Be SURE to paint the edges of the BACK side.  Why?
Because when you attach the boards to the mirror, the reflection WILL SHOW about 1/2 inch of the back of the board.


Now, using a tube of Liquid Nails, apply adhesive to the back of your trim.
Be sure to put enough on the board - don't be too stingy or it won't attach and it will fall or have big gaps that show in the reflection and bow off the mirror.
Make sure you use enough on the ends, as they tend to like to lift more.



Frame your mirror with the pieces.
Attach painter's tape to hold it in place while it dries for 24 hours.
Use as much as you need to secure it well.


On my other mirror that was 7 1/2 feet long I actually propped a heavy weight from my husbands weight bench up against the corner that kept wanting to bow out.
When they are dry, remove the tape.
Use a paintable caulk (make SURE it says paintable) to fill in those angled corners.  Use your finger to smooth the caulk over the joints.  Let dry.
Use your paint to touch up any knicks and to paint over the corner joints where you filled the seams with caulk to give it a smooth seam.
Let dry and... you're finished!





I bought all my supplies at Lowes;
Miter Box and Saw
Wood Trim
Liquid Nails
Painters Tape
Paintable Caulk